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Fiji’s reputation as a paradise resort destination precedes itself. I was excited to explore this new country and see for myself how exotic it was.

Nadi

Coming from Vanuatu, my Fiji Airways flight was an hour meaning I arrived in Nadi quite late in the evening.

Once we arrived on the tarmac the captain announced over the loud speaker “David De Clercq, there is someone waiting for you on the runway”. Confused passengers looked around as I sat there nodding.

I was happy to find a lady from the airport was there to greet me. She guided me through the immigration packed with passengers off the Shanghai flight. It was the Chinese New Year rush.

Fortunately thanks to her and Hilton’s arrangements, the process was painless. I went straight to the front of the line and the officer didn’t even ask any questions.

Country 169 complete!

With a shell necklace around my neck, I was off to Hilton Fiji Beach Resort, my base for the next few days.

The suite was an awesome set up with a separate dining area, couch and media section and a kitchenette. The bathroom even had a washer and dryer!

Over the next few days, I took it easy and got some work done. I went for the Hilton signature massage and a cocktail party for their Hilton Honors guests. I also met with Michelle, the marketing manager for some inside tips of Fiji.

Denarau

What use to be a mangrove has now become a ritzy island with a golf course, marina, high-end residences and 5 star hotels. Built on reclaimed land, this island is isolated from Nadi and even has a security checkpoint.

I took a self guided walking tour starting with the marina.

The tourist oriented marina was complete with shops, restaurants and even a Hard Rock Cafe. Ferries to the outer islands leave from here.

I walked by the golf course dotted with palm trees and glimpsed at the waterfront mansions each with a private jetty and yacht attached. Quite a contrast from Nadi.

From the beach I walked along the perimeter of the island seeing the resorts from the sea side. It seemed almost like some kind of Vegas strip in paradise with resort after resort. One interesting activity is a three hour jet ski safari around islands. Just watch out for sunburns…

Malolo Lailai

My next stop was Malolo Lailai, an island where I would stay at Lomani Island Resort for a couple of days. To get there I took the Malolo Cat shuttle from the marina. These large catamarans whisk you out to the islands in less than an hour.

Arriving at the dock, musicians playing the guitar and singing welcome you with seashell necklaces.

My room had a beautiful set up with a large bed facing the sea. The indoor and outdoor shower set up was a great feature especially with the warm weather.

That night there was a show with slow traditional dancing and machete wielding tricks.

The next day I had a chance to join in one of the snorkeling excursions organized by the hotel. We took a boat out to the reef and had to swim against some strong current avoiding jellyfish to explore the colorful reefs.

In the afternoon I biked around the island to check out the other resorts and the coastline. At one point I rode across an airstrip which was unusual.

I read about this wood carving village, so I asked around and found out that this village is on a different island. The adjacent island is separated by a sandbar which is crossable during low tide. I trustingly left my bicycle parked there with no lock and walked around to the other island. I was a bit nervous to step on something like a sea urchin but just followed the footsteps of this other guy crossing.

He was a friendly local who shared some information about island life and resort work. He led me all the way to the village. This non-touristy island was a lot less maintained and garbage littered the path.

We arrived and the guy was off with a handshake. An overweight lady sat in a chair and told me a bit about their village and how no one was working because it was Sunday. Apparently the villagers all came from an island famous for wood carvings. They travel days by boat to settle in this new home in order to make carvings for the resorts.

The shirtless potbellied craftsman emerged with a big toothy smile. He brought his duffel bag of carvings for me to shift through. He explained all the designs represent something like turtles is peace and parrot is love. I ended up getting a small turtle. I like turtles.

I happened to be at this couple’s resort during Valentine’s Day. For breakfast they sent a small cupcake with “be my valentine” written in pink frosting. For dinner, the entire restaurant was decked out in red curtains and candle lit tables. I ordered room service. The guy taking my order even said “I know you! The only person who came alone!”

The things I do for my country count…

Nadi to Suva

The next day I was off to Suva the capital of Fiji. I had a long trip ahead of me so I set out right after breakfast. I caught the ferry back to Denarau marina where I got a transfer to the airport to pick up my rental car.

I made a quick stop at Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple for some photo-ops.

Then I took a small detour to visit the Momi Bay Battery. These were two British guns from South Africa set on this hill by the U.S. In case of Japanese invasion. They were positioned to guard the one passageway through the reef for access to the western islands. Fortunately they were only fired twice; once for testing and another as a warning shot at an unannounced Allied vessel. The guide was very enthusiastic and explained how the only WWII museum in the South Pacific was being built on that hill top.

I then had a hectic drive to catch my tour at 1 p.m. in Sigatoka.

Sigatoka River Safari

I arrived just in time to catch the tour.

The safari began with a fun and informative twenty-minute or “hour and a half in Fiji time” bus ride to the riverside. We learned about how this valley is the salad bowl of Fiji.

At the river we were issued life vests and loaded up into the speed boat. This aluminum-bodied beast had 150 hp of tourist-terrorizing thrust!

Freddie our driver took us on a comfortable ride down the longest river in Fiji. We weaved by fishermen, locals washing clothes, and herders tending to animals. 

Eventually we turned around and parked on the river bank to go to the village. Our guide from the village had a large toothy smile and a thick scar on his neck. We followed him through the village. He showed us a house that has almost toppled over the cliff because of the high level of flooding as the village is right on a river choke point.

We then continued up to the chief’s hut at the top of the hill. Men entered the hut first, followed by women and we sat apart. The villagers and the chief performed a welcome ceremony with lots of chanting and clapping. Our group offered a kava root to the village which they accepted and then started making a kava drink. Two guys rubbed the powder through a cloth filter with water. Then one by one we were given bowls of kava in order of respect starting with the chief and ending with the female guests. With one large gulp, you drink the bowl of kava which is followed by clapping from the group. The texture of the drink is like putting cinnamon powder in your mouth, but it tasted a bit bitter. After three rounds my mouth was feeling a bit numb. Kava is suppose to have a calming effect similar to anxiety drugs.

A traditional lunch followed in the large hall of the village. We listened to their group singing with guitars that eventually turned into dancing. Children to older adults invited us to the dance floor to try anything from a slow traditional dance to a giant conga line! This interaction was a highlight of the tour.

On the boat ride back, Freddie did some 360 degree spins for the amusement of the passengers.

From Sigatoka I continued straight to Suva basically nonstop.

It was a scenic drive with beautiful coastal communities and some resorts. A tropical downpour kind of ruined the fun.

Suva

I got to Suva after dark and arrived at the Grand Pacific Hotel. This landmark was hard to miss with its historic colonial style architecture lit up on the main avenue. Newly renovated interiors make this classic hotel the leading property of the city. Queen Elizabeth even stayed here on her visit in 1954.

The next morning I was off to the airport but had a drive through the capital city. Suva the largest city of the South Pacific and comes with the conveniences and annoyances of every large city. Shops, attractions, and colonial buildings line the streets clogged with rush hour traffic. Fortunately there wasn’t much traffic out of the city and about thirty minutes later I was at the airport ready for my flight to Tuvalu!