What can I say about Tuvalu, one of the smallest countries in the world? When you see it from the air on the landing approach you think, this can’t be a country. Barely larger than a resort island, this sliver of land sitting in the middle of the ocean can just fit the length of the airport runway. Is this real life?

This is however very real. And the country is home to over 10,000 inhabitants. It achieved independence from the United Kingdom in 1978 and has since joined the UN.

Coming from Fiji, I had a couple of days to explore and see what makes Tuvalu tick.

Unfortunately the tourism sector is not very developed. With only a few hundred tourists visiting a year, Tuvalu does not yet have the infrastructure to develop the industry. Plus flights are prohibitively expensive as Fiji Airways has a nice little monopoly on all flights in and out of the country. They charge whatever they want and people will be forced to pay.

When I arrived I was surprised to find Hotel Filamona right next to the airport. And I mean RIGHT next to the airport. I could walk off the plane and into the reception. Talk about a great location! From this cozy hotel, all sights were basically accessible by foot. The weather wasn’t ideal as there were sporadic torrential downpours throughout my stay. I also ended up with a bad case of bacterial enteritis meaning I spent a lot of intimate time with the porcelain god of my bathroom. Not confirmed, but I believe it was from the kava I had in the Sigatoka village.

Nevertheless, I made my way around town. Here are the points of interest I visited.

Funafuti International Airport

The airport is an attraction itself simply because it is so unique. Constructed during WWII, the runway is completely open and parallel to a residential road with no fence or barrier of any kind. When a plane is about to land or take off, the fire truck sounds its siren and kind of blocks the road. People on scooters wait patiently for the plane to get out of their way before they can cross, just like a rail crossing.

The health department, immigration, customs, and agricultural department all have a desk in the arrival hall and you have to go from desk to desk giving each a separate form. The baggage claim is also in the same room, so it gets pretty crowded.

Check-in is very informal. Once you give your passport, a lady will take you to the back room where they can check your reservation and stick a seat number to your handwritten boarding pass. Then you wait to pass through the immigration desk and board the plane. Simple.

Outside is a small booth for duty free shopping.

Handicraft Market

This craft market is attached to the airport building and consists of about six tables with mostly shell necklaces and wood carvings. When I went, there were two ladies working on necklaces. They tend to go to the main hall when a flight is expected. I had asked for a tourist shirt which they did not have but the lady happily directed me to the General Manager of the bank.

Development Bank of Tuvalu

I went into this small bank to inquire about getting a tourist shirt. A lady quickly showed me to the general manager who invited me into his office. He said the prints the tourist shirts and can have one delivered to my hotel in the evening for AUD$20. What great service!

Tuvalu Philatelic Bureau

Tuvalu is a rare country to come by and its stamps are no different. The post office has a section that sells Tuvalu stamps. Many are on display under a plastic cover on a long table dating back to the 80s. Interestingly they sell them at face value despite the age. Philatelists take note!

Government Building

The prominent building next to the airport is the three storied government hall. I went in to have a look and found a very casual atmosphere. Ladies working in the office had flower crowns on while serving citizens walking in from the street.

Beach

The beach is hard to avoid. A short walk in almost any direction will bring you to the lagoon or sea side. The white sand beaches are picturesque though there seemed to be some construction possibly to stop erosion.

Overall, Tuvalu is a very relaxed and easy place to explore. People are generally very friendly and happy. Everyone seems to be a part of this tight knit community where cooperation is more the theme than competition. People wave and shake hands with big hearty smiles. Kids run around playing barefoot in the rain. Life is simple and serene.

When you’re on an island, surrounded by ocean, not much else matters. So why not be happy?